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Flying wedges:

The left wrist is flat at all times (geometrically flat - you can use a strong grip) The left wrist is only allowed to cock and uncock. When you hold the club out in front of you it is a strictly vertical up and down motion in the wrist. That's all you should allow your left wrist to do before both arms stright towards the finish.

The right wrist is frozen*, bent and level until both arms straight. When you take the club back you shall enable the left wrist cock by bending the right elbow. You can get the left wrist fully cocked and uncocked while maintaining a frozen right wrist. The frozen right wrist will help you keep the rhythm.

The flying wedges takes away a lot of motional freedom that can only ruin a good golf stroke.

There are two planes involved here. The plane of the left flying wedge - the angle between the left arm and the club. That plane is close to vertical at address, but it rotates into the swing plane as you progress on your back swing and rotates back to vertical towards impact.

The other plane is the plane of the right flying wedge. Ideally* it is 90 degree to the left flying wedge and in the swing plane at address and impact. Which meeans thay your right forearm is on the inclined plane (the swing plane) and should look as an extension of the clubshaft at address from down the line.

*I am one of those who don't do this 100% from address because I can't seem to produce a good swing that way. I need to have the hands somewhat lower. I need some slack at address because I impact the ball with more shoulder turn than I can produce at address. Nevertheless my right forearm is on plane at impact. So instead of a frozen left wrist I use a "quiet" left wrist. It is somewhere between cocked and level at address, but it finds its level position half way up in the back swing and stays there until the ball is gone.

Yoda and O.B. Left has a no compromize attitude towards the frozen right wrist and for good reasons. If you can make it work for you, you will get a simpler stroke. But if you need lower hands at address to save your swing dynamics it may be comforting to know that about 95% of the best golfers on the planet seems to do the same. The lighter version of the wedges means that you should still only allow your left wrist to cock and uncock, that there should be very little cocking and uncocking (close to nil) in the right wrist and that there should be no straigtening of the left wrist before impact. You can increase the left wrist bend in the back stroke, but only if you can keep it until past impact.

Whether you go for the hard core, "frozen" right wrist version or the lighter "quiet" right wrist version it should help you develop a better rhythm in the stroke. The flying wedges will impose a lot of restrictions on the rest of the golf stroke, and that is probably the best part of it: They will prevent you from doing a lot of wrongs.

I don't know if this will help because oversimplifying can lead to misunderstanding. The Left Arm Wedge and the Right Forearm Wedge serve critical but different functions. Using a 10-2-B Grip, they become aligned in a manner that each can maintain its own identity while attached/supporting the other.

Think of an Umbrella (not the best example). The one arm supports the fabric while attached to another arm that pushes it into position. Each arm serves a different function and are connected in a specific way. Each arm needs the other to perform its own function. Like I said, bad example.

It's probably a good example if one already understands it. I think I know what the hands and wrist are supposed to do. And I am tempted to say like Yoda does - in another sequence - let the wrists and arms do what the wrists and hands do - and forget the whole wedge picture if it doesn't click for me. But maybe it will - one day. Thanks anyway.