I do the Ben Doyle tire test every day. I have a small tire just like on his videos and I can move the tire pretty good without flipping it over. For some reason it just doesn't translate over the ball.
I'll try and get some video of it. Left wrist stays flat, right stays bent and the tire moves in a straight line a good 3-4 feet and doesn't flip over.
I do the Ben Doyle tire test every day. I have a small tire just like on his videos and I can move the tire pretty good without flipping it over. For some reason it just doesn't translate over the ball.
I'll try and get some video of it. Left wrist stays flat, right stays bent and the tire moves in a straight line a good 3-4 feet and doesn't flip over.
What else should I be trying to monitor?
Unfortunately hitting a golf ball and hitting a tire are two entirely different things so far as the brain is concerned (to a lot of people). The tire drill teaches you the motion but you need to change your programming for the ball to have a FLW, BRW through impact. I like the idea of putting a dowel a few inches behind the ball, that will keep you honest.
Matt
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"In my experience, if you stay with the essentials you WILL build a repeatable swing undoubtedly. If you can master the Imperatives you have a champion" (Vikram).
The reason you can't sustain the lag is because you are so eager to make the club move fast (a reaction to the intent of "hitting it far"). So on a full shot you throw it away too early, which doesn't happen for your short chip. (bts)
After looking at more video of my swing both over a ball and hitting the tire I have concluded that my backswing shoulder turn is quite different over the ball than hitting the tire.
While hitting the tire, my backswing shoulder turn is quite a bit flatter, while over the ball it looks like I'm scrunching my shoulders a bit instead of fully turning them, thus causing the roundhouse move. Problem rectified and positive results so far. We'll see how it goes.
I do the Ben Doyle tire test every day. I have a small tire just like on his videos and I can move the tire pretty good without flipping it over. For some reason it just doesn't translate over the ball.
What else should I be trying to monitor?
Remember, the Flat Left Wrist at Impact and the In-Line condition from Sweet Spot to Left Shoulder constitute only Phase II of the Law of the Flail -- Centrifugal Momentum. In Phase I, the Club, having been taken Out-of-Line with the Left Arm, is then Released to seek its In-Line condition. In Phase III, the Club must once again get Out-of-Line. Only when the Club passes smoothly through all three phases can you hope to have an effective full Golf Stroke.
First use a dowel to get the feel of the action, and then use a club gripped well down. IMPORTANT: Hold the dowel and club in your FIST (thumb around the shaft) and NOT in a normal golf grip. This automatically produces the Out-of-Line condition mandated in Phases I and III. Check this hold after a few passes because you've probably gone back to your normal left hand grip. Almost everybody does.
Then, using the left hand only but using a normal golf grip, hold the club at the end of the shaft. Finally, using both hands in a normal grip, make half-swings emphasizing the exact same Flailing motion as in the drills.
Stay with it a while, and my guess is you will be pleasantly surprised at the results.
Remember, the Flat Left Wrist at Impact and the In-Line condition from Sweet Spot to Left Shoulder constitute only Phase II of the Law of the Flail -- Centrifugal Momentum. In Phase I, the Club, having been taken Out-of-Line with the Left Arm, is then Released to seek its In-Line condition. In Phase III, the Club must once again get Out-of-Line. Only when the Club passes smoothly through all three phases can you hope to have an effective full Golf Stroke.
First use a dowel to get the feel of the action, and then use a club gripped well down. IMPORTANT: Hold the dowel and club in your FIST (thumb around the shaft) and NOT in a normal golf grip. This automatically produces the Out-of-Line condition mandated in Phases I and III. Check this hold after a few passes because you've probably gone back to your normal left hand grip. Almost everybody does.
Then, using the left hand only but using a normal golf grip, hold the club at the end of the shaft. Finally, using both hands in a normal grip, make half-swings emphasizing the exact same Flailing motion as in the drills.
Stay with it a while, and my guess is you will be pleasantly surprised at the results.
Boooooooooooooooooooooom!
Yes sir! I'd like to add to this . . . glcoach . . . You have a net. After your dowel drilling, you should perform this WITH CLUB and WITH BALL at like 10% or 5% of your normal speed. SUUUUUUUUUPER SLOW. It is really easy to focus on the Clubhead and NOT YOUR HANDS at this speed. If you can compress it at this very slow-mo speed you have done it by monitoring your Hands.
To me there are TWO types of "Flat" Left Wrists . . . One that is HELD TIGHTLY FLAT by shere effort. Homer said that you COULD learn this way. You may miss the ball but EVENTUALLY BECAUSE you have HELD THAT THING TIGHT AND FLAT you HAVE TO do the things that are required.
On the other hand, a DYNAMICALLY Flat Left Wrist is one that has its basis in the Law of the Flail as Doc Collards points out above. Watch the video and pay PARTICULAR ATTENTION to the "UNCOCKING ON THAT LINE!" portion. That is HAMMERING on an Inclined Plane . . . that's all it is. The motion of the #2 Accumulator (the velocity accumulator) is simply AN EXTENSION OF THE LEVER ASSEMBLY. That's it you are just EXTENDING or better yet CF is extending it if you are a Swinger. If your effort and intent is upon extending the lever assembly, you have no inclination to flip or throw it away.
The #3 Accumulator is TRANSFER POWER . . . the velocity that results from the EXTENSION via #2 is TRANSFERED via the ROLL (on that line) of #3. But it all results from a simple extension or a hammering motion FIRST . . . that MUST be followed by a ROTATION (Roll) Never Never Never a Horizontal Motion has no place in the Downstroke . . .period.
If you can execute these motions with a dowel then sooooooooper slow with the club ball and net . . . then you can kick it up a notch. Everytime I went to see Eddie Cox we hit THOUSANDS of HARD chips and pitches. SLING THAT CLUB OUT TO FULL EXTENSION. SLING IT DOWN DOWN DOWN. Stop at follow through to see if your Left Wrist is Flat and FULLY UNCOCKED. It will be if you have extended the lever assembly and ROLLED. Otherwise you flipped. This is a DYMANICALLY FLAT LEFT WRIST.
Here's the Law of the Flail in ACTION . . .
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Aloha Mr. Hand
Behold my hands; reach hither thy hand
Last edited by 12 piece bucket : 02-15-2007 at 05:27 PM.
Yes sir! I'd like to add to this . . . glcoach . . . You have a net. After your dowel drilling, you should perform this WITH CLUB and WITH BALL at like 10% or 5% of your normal speed. SUUUUUUUUUPER SLOW. It is really easy to focus on the Clubhead and NOT YOUR HANDS at this speed. If you can compress it at this very slow-mo speed you have done it by monitoring your Hands.
To me there are TWO types of "Flat" Left Wrists . . . One that is HELD TIGHTLY FLAT by shere effort. Homer said that you COULD learn this way. You may miss the ball but EVENTUALLY BECAUSE you have HELD THAT THING TIGHT AND FLAT you HAVE TO do the things that are required.
On the other hand, a DYNAMICALLY Flat Left Wrist is one that has its basis in the Law of the Flail as Doc Collards points out above. Watch the video and pay PARTICULAR ATTENTION to the "UNCOCKING ON THAT LINE!" portion. That is HAMMERING on an Inclined Plane . . . that's all it is. The motion of the #2 Accumulator (the velocity accumulator) is simply AN EXTENSION OF THE LEVER ASSEMBLY. That's it you are just EXTENDING or better yet CF is extending it if you are a Swinger. If your effort and intent is upon extending the lever assembly, you have no inclination to flip or throw it away.
The #3 Accumulator is TRANSFER POWER . . . the velocity that results from the EXTENSION via #2 is TRANSFERED via the ROLL (on that line) of #3. But it all results from a simple extension or a hammering motion FIRST . . . that MUST be followed by a ROTATION (Roll) Never Never Never a Horizontal Motion has no place in the Downstroke . . .period.
If you can execute these motions with a dowel then sooooooooper slow with the club ball and net . . . then you can kick it up a notch. Everytime I went to see Eddie Cox we hit THOUSANDS of HARD chips and pitches. SLING THAT CLUB OUT TO FULL EXTENSION. SLING IT DOWN DOWN DOWN. Stop at follow through to see if your Left Wrist is Flat and FULLY UNCOCKED. It will be if you have extended the lever assembly and ROLLED. Otherwise you flipped. This is a DYMANICALLY FLAT LEFT WRIST.
Here's the Law of the Flail in ACTION . . .
Classic post Bucket!! Great stuff here.
The drill that Yoda described is something that I have been doing all winter long and he is right once you get it right it will immediately move your game to the next level. Just get some weird looks at the range though when all I do is swish a dowel about for 100 times
Alex
They have helped a ton. Uncocking on the straight plane line forces the right shoulder down plane.
12 pb, I have performed the chips and pitches at slow speeds, I now understand what you are saying by "keeping it flat" and "dynamically flat"
Alot of times, in my effort to keep a flat left wrist, my right shoulder took over, thereby bending the plane line, which resulted in a big push, or if my body rejected this motion, I flipped it at the end and pulled it.
Uncocking on the plane line cleared that up. My right shoulder goes more down plane, I have more snap.
One more thing, I pop that tire a whole lot LOUDER now. I like messing with the neighbors
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