#3 power accumulator
 

#3 Power Accumulator
Not really understand this for sure, but what is this really? The roll of left arm/hand/club from p4 to p7, or is it the angle between left arm and clubshaft (which I find the same as #2 PA in practical terms)?

It's a "power" contributor (accumulator) yes, but any other benefit/consequence of mainly relying and making the most out of this in a swing?

And how?

It's a combination of the roll and the angle. It works like a gear. Small hand motion + rotation gives long club head travel.

check your left hand grip
 

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A MOSTLY FINGER GRIP UNDER THE HEEL OF YOUR LEFT HAND, ALA HOGAN, THE POWER ACCUMULATOR # 3 WILL NOT BE EFFECTIVE AND YOUR machINE WILL BE MUCH LESS EFFECTIVE. :golfcart2: rock on!

while we are in zone 3 hands
 

You must keep a flat left wrist and bent right wrist THROUGH EVERY TYPE OF IMPACT. LISTEN, NOT AT STANDARD ADDRESS BUT AT IMPACT OR, IMPACT FIX.

YOUR ARMS WILL TRANSFER AND MULTIPLY THE DRIVE OF YOUR SLOW MOVING HIPS AND YOU MUST GET YOUR BACK HIP OUT OF THE WAY OF YOUR BACK SHOULDER SO THAT YOUR HANDS CAN PRECISELY HIT THE. SNAT OUT OT THE BALL 69 TIMES ON SUNDAY MORNINGS AND OTHER DAYS. :)

I agree that the PA #3 is very important. Come to think of it, Phil Michelson's Hinge & Hold is very much PA#3 based.

Sequenced Release
 

The #3 Power Accumulator is formed by placing the Clubshaft under the heel of the Left Hand with the Left Wrist in a Level condition (upper left forearm and first knuckle of left hand forefinger in-line). In this condition, Left Hand Turn and Roll produces Rotational Power.

When the Left Wrist is Cocked beyond Level, the Swing Radius is shortened. Its return to Level -- and finally, Uncocked -- creates Velocity Power, totally independent of Rotational Power.

When Left Wristcock Power is employed, the Residual Velocity (of the Uncocking Left Wrist) is Transferred into Impact by the Level Left Wrist Roll. Hence, the designation of #3 as Transfer Power.

:salut:

what he said
 

OFF TO THE COURSE TO LIVE THE WEDGES FOR FUN AND PROFIT. :golf:

Accuracy
 

Of all the PAs, I would think this is the one that contributes best in terms of accuracy... How correct/wrong am I? I'm referring to the #3PA angle I guess, not the roll itself. By that angle I mean the degree of angle/bent between shaft and left arm. What do you exactly call that in tgm terms?

The more the left arm and shaft is angled, the greater the clubhead travel and the greater accuracy will be because of slower rate of clubface closure (all other things being equal of course), right?

Thank you for all the replies, including berntr's reply in the advanced forum. Your replies made my golf swing. I revamped it, with the main thing that all other bow to being the maximum PA#3 angle.

Hello Mr. Yoda,

Re the acute PA#3 angle, you mentioned the more acute it is, the more power is lessened because of more clubhead travel to release the clubhead. Is it possible to instead focus on this, I mean maximize the clubhead travel and turn it to your advantage?

My "compensation" is this. I release right from the top of the swing. Sweep release. But my rlease just focuses on the release of PA#3 and PA#4, with everything else done to preserve the PA#3 angle as much as possible. I release PA#4 by firing the hips aggressively to start the DS from top and then aggressive turn of shoulders and arms. I release PA#3 with an independent and intentional supination of left forearm/wrist. The everything else are flat and level wrist at impact fix, pitch elbow, weak grip, bent right wrist/PP1, flat lies, low hands, butt of grip under the heel of palm, early elbow plane, and long thumb.

I don't feel a power drain on this. I achieve and ENSURE lag, greater clubhead travel translates to more momentum I think, so faster clubhead speed at impact, and best of all, tremendous accuracy. I never thought supination as fast as I can won't make the ball hook. Slight pulls, yes, but no hooks. And in a 56 degree wedge, I added 20 yards. Supination, as said by Hogan, in deed result to cleaner strikes as well, so more consistent sweet spot strikes, with the delofting of face resulting to lower shots/anti-wind shots, hence longer balls.

Anything you think is/are amiss in the above?

Sincerely.

Power Struggle
 

Sorry, brained. never said that (and, unless its angle is intentionally zeroed out by gripping the club in the lifeline of the left hand, it's not true). You may be confusing #2 (Left Wrist Cock) and #3 (Left Wrist Roll). They are not the same.

The Left Wrist Uncocking motion -- from Cocked to fully Uncocked -- is true Lever Extension (2-P). The Left Wrist Rolling motion transfers that velocity into Impact, aligns the Clubface, and sustains -- in fact, is -- Rhythm.

:golfcart2:

I MISREAD THIS QUESTION. I READ IT TO MEAN A MORE INCREASED #3 ANGLE 'INCREASED' POWER (AND NOT 'LESSENED' IT, AS ACTUALLY STATED). SEE MY AMENDED RESPONSE IN POST #14 BELOW.

Mr. Yoda,

I am referring to the post below in the Archives on Power Package on PA3. I am particularly referring to the 3rd paragraph. It's mentioned below that the more acute the angle at setup, the more it takes longer to release, hence causing slower clubhead speed?

So, I guess you prefer taking advantage MAINLY of pa2 with pa3 transferring it to the clubhead, which is mainly velocity power?

Would you think it's possible, or maybe better, to take advantage MAINLY of pa3 with a more acute pa3 angle built-in right from setup, then rely MAINLY on rotational power via dual horizontal hinge, 1st hinge being the left shoulder/pivot and 2nd hinge being the left wrist by pronating it in BS and supinating it in DS intentionally, coming from early elbow plane upon transitioning? So, in effect doubling the CP force?

You said early release is required, would this be easier since you don't have to time it between transition and impact (prior to impact)? Especially for amateurs, because they'll just release right at transition?

I'm particularly interested in this because I find it greatly reduces dispersion. And for me, added distance and with a more boring trajectory.

Respectfully,
brianid

******************************
* #1 *
04-26-2006, 09:27 PM

Yoda
Administrator
*
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 9,510
6-B-3-0 Accumlator #3
Originally Posted by Phillygolf
So, at address, lower your hands - you are increasing accumulator #3 when you do that.

-Patrick

As part of the Alignment Routine of 2-J-1, the Grip should be taken at Impact Fix with the Left Wrist Flat, Level and Vertical. This also establishes the height of the Hands for Impact. Within the constraint of the Flat, Level and Vertical Left Wrist at its Impact Fix height, the #3 Accumulator Angle is established. If a greater #3 Angle is desired, the Club is positioned more under the Heel of the Hand. If less is desired, it is positioned more toward the Cup (but still under the Heel). If Zero #3 is desired, the Club is actually positioned in the Cup.

For simplicity and greater Power Control, most Short Strokes, especially Putts and Chips, should employ Zero #3. This is ideally accomplished as described above, i.e., Gripping the Club in the Cup of the Left Hand. However, at the player's option, it can also be done by Gripping the Club under the Heel of the Left Hand but with the Wrist in a Flat, Uncocked and Vertical condition at Fix.

Full Strokes, on the other hand, require the greater Power afforded by the #3 Accumulator. Interestingly, in this case -- as in so much of life -- more is not better. Absent special circumstances or psychological needs (which must be accomodated!), only a minimal amount of #3 Accumulator Angle should be used. That is because the more acute the #3 Angle, the sooner it must be Released. This creates a longer Release Interval and less than Full Power. Maximum yardage requires the use of the Snap Release and minimal #3 Accumulator. You still get the same Clubhead Travel and Rhythm (6-B-3-0) of the #3 Accumulator through Impact to the end of the Follow-Through (Both Arms Straight Position), but the minimal Release Interval (2-M-2) produces a smaller Clubhead Travel Time. Hence, more yardage.

And here is one final, very important point. The #3 Accumulator is called Transfer Power for a reason: Especially in the Sequenced Release (4-D-0) of Swingers, it transfers the Power of the Released #2 Accumulator (Left Wrist Cock) into the Rolling Left Forearm and Hand. You should deliberately attempt to Feel this happening and do everything you can to encourage its Action.

Here's how to do it: From the Top, Drag Load (7-19) by Pulling the Butt End of the Club toward the Plane Line. Immediately thereafter, begin a Non-Automatic Random Sweep Release (10-24-B) -- later you can 'kick it up a notch' with the Automatic Snap Release of 10-24-E -- by Uncocking your Left Wrist strongly Downward, also toward the Plane Line. That takes only a fraction of a second, and just as soon as you Feel the strong, Downward Uncocking Motion underway, use its momentum to begin the Roll of your #3 Angle On Line through Impact. You've Launched a Three-Stage Rocket: The Drag Load established your initial Thrust; your Uncocking Left Wrist created the highest Velocity you will be able to achieve; and the #3 Accumulator picked up that Velocity and sustained it into Impact.

With Practice, this Sequenced Release blends into a single unified Motion and creates truly effortless, mystifying and almost magical Power. And when you get it right...

You're not going to believe it!
__________________
Yoda

* #2 *
04-26-2006, 09:49 PM
************************

to get the right format:

http://www.lynnblakegolf.com/forum/thread2696.html

Power Struggle Redux
 

AMENDMENT TO MY POST #11 ABOVE

In my Post #11, I had read brianid's quote to say that the more acute #3 Angle increased Power (which is the only way readers have interpreted this Angle in posts over the past seven years!). Sorry 'bout that!

The more acute #3 Angle definitely can result in a lower Clubhead Speed. However, it is incorrect to state that the Power is lessened because of "additional Clubhead Travel". Unless #3 is zeroed, #3 Clubhead Travel is identical (at all Clubhead Speeds) for any amount of Angle and for both Horizontal and Angled Hinge Action. The 'No Roll' of Vertical Hinge Action effectively zeroes the #3 Accumulator (which, by definition, negates the #3 "Roll").

So, if the distance the Clubhead travels (to the end of the Follow-Through and its Both Arms Straight position / Section 11) doesn't lessen Power, then what does? Answer: The longer Release Arc, e.g., if you double the travel time (of the Release), you halve the travel rate. Study 2-M-2 and 6-N-0.

:salut:

Clearing More #3 Accumulator Fog
 

This quote, now correctly formatted to avoid any attribution to me, is simply wrong. The #3 Angle is established solely by the angle formed between the Clubshaft and the Left Arm when the Grip is taken with the left wrist in a Level Condition.

"Low" Hands simply means that the left wrist has been Cocked. Beating a dead horse, Cocking the left wrist does NOT increase the #3 Accumulator Angle. However, a FULLY-Uncocked Left Wrist does zero it (a useful procedure for Chipping and Putting where the Club has been gripped under the heel of the left hand, and minimum Power is desired).

:golfcart2:

Thanks for the responses Mr. Yoda.

I like PA3 and maximizing the angle in MY swing. The longer release arc causing clubhead speed--what do you think can remedy this? I think because if the longer release arc, the person have to be stronger and faster to recover the lost ch speed. I for now think this can be remedied, until I get stronger enough, with the help of the "3 right hands". I do an intentional and independent supination of the left arm/elbow/forearm/hand and the right hand. Both of them releasing pa3, making sure the left wrist is flat and level always at transition until impact. I full release right from the start, right after transition, on elbow plane, around p5.

You think I'm on the right track? Anything I might be missing?

Respectfully.

Judge and Jury
 

What does the ball say?

:golf:

Good stuff in this thread....a few things to watch/monitor in this regard....

1. How is the clubface aligned in your hand when you grip it? If it is closed/shutty when you grip it that could cause the pull issue.....pay attention to how much "shaft lean" you program into your grip...if you program in a considerable amount of lean in your grip i.e. take the grip with the shaft leaning waaaaay more than vertical then if you don't deliver that amount of shaft lean to the ball...pull city.

2. Pay attention to your hand path....remember it is the CLUBHEAD that is thrown out to the ball....not your hands...if your hands are getting "out and away" from you and you focus on "releasing #3"...you could get pulls and wipes....not saying that is the issue but if it is try this drill...you want the left arm staying "in" and the hands "in on plane" as the clubhead travels out on plane to the ball. So take your grip left hand only. Place your right hand on your left elbow and pin it to your body where it would be at address. Now just take the club up like a chipping type motion with your left hand...from there use your left hand to THROW the club head out into the ground..out to the plane line....no pivot just isolate the #2 and #3 accumulators...so you are basically just going to throw/dump the club into the ground well back of where the ball would be...you would be hitting a huge fat shot...have the sweetspot looking at the ground earlier...not out to the right...throw the sweetspot into the ground well behind the ball with your left arm pinned.....you'll isolate how #3 has to work with your hands in and not out away from you....

from there the question becomes...how do I get to the ball...that's where your pivot comes in...your right shoulder moving forward and out to the plane line will bring all that #3 and #2 motion forward....but the drill is just to isolate how the work as your left arm/hands to race out and away from you.

My balls now are boring, lower. My misses are mostly pulls, but slight only. Becomes large pulls only if I forgot to initiate the hips at p4/transition.

But I'm afraid I may be doing one or two things incompatible with this system/pattern that may put a monkey wrench on it later on. Or, I'm missing something that will make it eventually break down. Happens a lot you know.

Any advise on some BS requirements in this pattern, if any? Elbow plane up to p3, with slight shift to shoulder plane nearing top?

How about educated hands? Swiveling left hand and bending right wrist (coming from level but bent left wrist at setup with mid-body position), then cocking right elbow?

Respectfully.

Hello 12pbucket,

Thanks for the response and the drill.

What's the rationale for the sweetspot/clubface facing the ground immediately? To train the hands for immediate release, immediate/full release from top? As Mr. Yoga said, clubhead release arc is longer with more PA3 angle, so have to release immediately, correct? Any advice for the right hand/arm participation and timing?

Respectfully.

Let me clarify....sweetspot looking at the ball....this drill the club doesn't get too much higher than parallel to the ground.

as far as the right arm goes...depends on the procedure...in swinging the right elbow is going to lead...sweetspot will look at the ball later...hitting the right elbow is punch...simultaneous release type...so sweetspot will not lay on the face of the plane near as long...right forearm will be responsible for pushing/throwing out the sweetspot to the ball...but that doesnt meean the hands get thrown out...it's the clubhead...

Yoda perhaps I'm miss reading your post above. Or more likely I have something wrong again. But all things being equal I have always thought the club head travel associated with Vertical Hinging to be longer than that of Angled.

Please set me straight.

Regards
O.B.



Oops I meant Horizontal not Vertical.

Your question really confuses me. Did you write vertical hinging but meant horizontal hinging? I thought I now understood that the hinge action - f.ex. in the basic motion - has a different RHYTHM depending on which hinge action you choose. Vertical Hinging is the shortest clubhead movement in the followthru - and horizontal the longest and angled in between. Or am I talking about something completely different here? I hope not!

Middle Man
 

From Impact to the end of the Follow-Through (Both Arms Straight position), the Flat Left Wrist is held vertical to one of the Three Basic Planes (Horizontal, Angled, or Vertical). This is the Hinge Action concept, and it is the player's means of Clubface Control.

Holding the Left Wrist vertical to the Horizontal Plane produces the longest Clubhead Travel. Holding it vertical to the Vertical Plane produces the shortest. Holding the Left Wrist vertical to an Angled Plane (somewhere between the Horizontal and the Vertical) produces a Clubhead Travel that is likewise "somewhere in between".

To verify, go into a static Follow-Through position, then simply rotate the Left Wrist through the three alignments. You will see just how dependent Clubhead Travel is on the Left Wrist alignment and, as a result, how each Hinge Action has its own Rhythm (RPM of the Clubhead and Hands around the theoretical Left Shoulder Hinge Pin, i.e., the Arm Swing Center).

Here's a little video I shot impromptu a few years ago at the close of our Golf Academy at The Barclays. It moves pretty fast, so newbies -- we love you! -- might have to watch it a few times to catch the drift. Stay with it, though, because it is the 'open sesame' to the three Hinge Actions and their Rhythms, collectively among the most liberating concepts in golf.

http://www.lynnblakegolf.com/index.p...ge-Motion.html
:salut:

Bucket,

Thanks. I'm interested in the swinging as the main pattern.

But you think it's possible to be a switter AND still rely mainly on pa3 as power source? I mean, no pa2 release at all. As a matter of fact, there's effort to inhibit release of pa2 in order to maintain the pa3 angle, which in turn improves accuracy. Pa1 release by p5.5? I think it's not possible to do simultaneously pa3 release via supination and pa1 release. But what do you think? If possible, how?

Respectfully.

Mr. Yoda,

Re longer release arc or interval of having more pa3 angle, you said it's slower. Why? Because a given effort needs to be distributed on a wider arc, so in effect lessening speed, correct?

How about still relying on pa2, hence allowing a snap release, hence obtaining the desired speed; but you also ADD on the pa3 release with acute pa3 angle even after pa2 has been released? Would this ADDING of pa3 release to the pa2 release detriment the swing such as clubhead speed.

The way I look at it now (I'm still a newbie to TGM), having more pa3 angle doesn't mean you reduce pa2 release (cock to uncock interval). Nobody or nothing can, as a matter of fact. Why? Because a person's cock to uncock interval is determined by his left wrist's physical makeup/anatomy, correct? So, I'm thinking still use pa2, but even upon full release of pa2, there would still be huge pa3 angle remaining by impact.

In short, simultaneous full release of both pa2 and pa3 right after transition, upon reaching early elbow plane. You think this is possible? Any experience hindsight on this?

Respectfully.

Brianid.....do you have a copy of the golfing machine? If not, you can buy one from the golfing machine website at www.thegolfingmachine.com I suggest you read through and take in the pictures in ch. 6 it is necessary for you to understand all the power accumulators, their functions, sequencing and how they are related to swinging and hitting respectively. There are many more places to read up about acc 3 but I suggest you start at ch. 6. Better yet buy the yellow book and find an authorized instructor in your area. There are no shortcuts only more and more know how. Build a foundation of the sameness first before you worry about the differences. Btw alignment golf > position golf (p4,p7) etc in the golfing machine we refer to the stages of the swing with pre address, impact fix, adjusted address, startup backstroke, top, start down, downstroke, release, impact, follow through, finish

Release Motions
 

The Simultaneous Release -- the straightening right elbow driving both the Left Wrist Motion (Uncocking) and Hand Motion (Rolling) -- is a Hitting procedure per 4-D-0 and 7-1. This Hitter's "overlapping" of Power Accumulators #2 and #3 increases Thrust, whereas the Swinger's non-overlapped "sequencing" increases Velocity (6-M-1). The simultaneous application of Power operates as "batteries in parallel" (versus the sequenced "staged rocket launch").

:golfcart2:

Whip,

No, it will take me yeaeaeaears to figure that yellow book out. :) Reading and posting here is sooooooooo much better...:)

Is relying on pa3 with maximized pa3 angle (rotational power?) an accepted pattern in tgm? I mean, does tgm teach it for those strong enough to pedal that small gear with longer/wider arc (release/interval arc)? Is it discussed in the book?

Respectfully.

Mr. Yoda,

Thanks.

So, simultaneous release of pa2 and pa3 is inconsistent in a Swinging pattern? What if I maximize the pa3 angle, won't it be possible? I'm thinking, if I can find a way to do a start down that preserves pa2/lag AND gets the hands/arms into elbow plane immediately/early, all I have to do after start down, during the downstroke, is full release of pa3. I don't even have to think of releasing pa2, although in reality it's being released as well. But what's on my mind is pa3 only. In fact, I even think of keeping the pa2 unreleased, I mean, I try to prevent the left wrist from uncocking with the (1) bent right wrist, (2) focusing on pp1, and (3) keeping a flat and level left wrist during the release process. My reason for this is in order to have as much pa3 angle as possible at impact to maximize accuracy. Is this even possible? I've not perfected this, that's for sure, but I think this leads to better accuracy, and distance if you're strong enough. What do you call this pattern?

Respectfully.

We pay mechanics to work on our cars because they have the tools space and most importantly the know-how. For those of us that have some tools have a garage and some free time those brave enough to work on their own cars without any or limited mechanical know how go to the auto parts store and obtain a manual for their vehicle, this manual guides the do It yourselfer through basic as well as advanced repair and maintenance. This does not make it easy and you will be stumped here and there but you will have a basis for your questions to ask other friends who maybe know more about cars. Complexity is much more workable than mystery and right now you are off track trying to guess what the yellow book might say when you could obtain one at a small cost

Maker's Mark
 

"X" (1-K).

:salut:

Yes , I meant to say Horizontal not Vertical . Thanks Air.

You want to "maintain" the #3 angle INHERENT IN THE PLANE ANGLE YOU SELECT...that's it that's all...the release type...that's freakin' red meat filet mig-nawn of the golfing machine....you can't swing and hit at the same time...Homer was a PURE GENIUS on this....Hitting IS releasing #2 and #3 at the SAME TIME....SIMULTANEOUSLY...therefore the sweetspot does not lay on the plane as long...also HUGE implications on right arm participation....pitch with swinging ...punch with hitting...



You can do that left arm drill thingie with BOTH procedures...you'll note that the left thumb works differently in it's uncocking...with simultaneous...the left thumb uncocks more "out to the plane line earlier"...with swinging you are uncocking karate chop left palm facing the plane longer...



different faces...different procedures...note the elbow positions....the different locations of the right shoulder....fly wheeling vertical-ish right shoulder...vs...launching pad right shoulder higher working out to the plane line more...Homer was a dang genius...right arm participation is totally different.
Accuracy isn't not allowing #2 to go...that's some morad junk...overriding the pulley...dragging the buttcap to the wall...

Fuzzy Wuz He
 

I know for a fact that O.B. Left understands the Hinge Actions and Rhythm. He learned it one-on-one with me and has demonstrated it to me (and others!) many times. However, I used his typo as an opportunity to 'fill in the blanks' for those new to our concepts.

Re-reading my post #14 above -- and substituting "Horizontal" for "Vertical" in O.B.'s post --I can see where his question arose. The writing wasn't as clear as it might have been. Only a guy with O.B.'s in depth understanding could have asked for clarification in my post as written.

Got grandkids all over me at the moment . . . "Poppy!!"

I'll clarify the issue tomorrow.

:eyes:

Best of Bucket
 

Hall of Fame post, Bucket. Rendered and illustrated, as usual, in your own inimitable style. I've been around many of the exalted gurus of the game, and nobody gets it more right than you. And, mano-o-mano . . .

You're a hard dog to get off the porch!!

:salut:

And you're still the faithful Cap'n....but really all you gotta do to get this sorry dawg of the porch is to throw a poke chop biscuit in the yard....bait a trap with the other white meat and you'll catch me ever' time? :happy3:

Whip,

Thanks for the advise. It's well noted.

Any recommendation on the edition? I've read somewhere pa3-based pattern (rotational power) was almost eliminated in the later editions (7th Ed I think)? To make way or focus on pa2-based pattern--velocity power? Is this true?

Respectfully.

Dif'rent Strokes
 

The first three editions of The Golfing Machine offered "Sample" Stroke Patterns for Golf Strokes from Drive to Putt. The Power Accumulator combinations varied accordingly.

Beginning with the 4th edition, these were eliminated and replaced with the two "Basic" Stroke Patterns (Hitting / 12-1-0 and Swinging / 12-2-0). Homer then advised that these two Basic Patterns be customized by the player as deemed necessary for the Stroke at hand.

:golfcart2:

Bucket,

Thanks on your usual great reply.

Re accuracy by keeping pa2 unreleased, I didn't mean it that way. My INTENTION is to do something with pp1 and keep bent right wrist, but I know that won't happen when the throwout happens because the pa2 will inevitably release. But I'm still doing the pp1/bent right wrist thing (and level left wrist by the way) more to avoid or prevent the pa2 release/velocity to uncock the left wrist greater than it's level state; hence I was able to "maintain" the minimum pa3 angle AFTER pa2 release. And yeah, I have to "pair" this minimum angle post-pa2-release to the plane line. Thanks, excellent. So if I desire the elbow plane, I'll have to adjust the pa3 angle to it, right?

So I guess, it's still swinging, with 4-2-3 as the pattern? With this desired pattern of mine, you think my quest for accuracy first, distance later (when I get stronger) is MISPLACED? You think in this preferred pattern of mine (pa3 angle based), which would you recommend, swinging or hitting? Hitting is tempting me, just because of the distance advantage of right arm thrust. But can it trump out the rotation aspect contributing much to clubhead speed inherent in a swinging pattern?

Re maintaining pa2 unreleased, I agree. But what's your thoughts on having and keeping as large pa3 angle as possible post-release of pa2 in accuracy perspective? Well, distance perspective as well?

Respectfully.